June 2016 / issue no. 102
Art and fashion have always been interrelated. And it’s due to fashion’s ability to quickly capture social shifts that the art world has repeatedly turned to it. With issue 102, Texte zur Kunst again takes “Fashion” as theme—this time examining how the late ’00s promise of online network “democratization,” street style, and more relatable models has only reinforced the industry’s power structure, engendering hyper-accelerated production cycles, significant creative turnover in fashion’s top tier, and a climate wherein designations of “luxury,” “discount,” and “underground,” have been all but destabilized as designers, unconvinced of these designations, increasingly apply them in jest. And while fashion has indeed opened to “real”-er bodies, each, it would seem, now comes with an exceptional hyper-individualized identity, each a “nodel” or a particular “othered” body—as if to be better differentiated from the stream.
But then how is the system itself responding? And what strategies are the more contested protagonists in the field taking up? Some answers can perhaps be found in fashion’s correspondence with art, as canonical art conceptual practices (e.g., parasitism, collective authorship, détournement, and forms of institutional critique) are putting new pressure on fashion’s markets. Though even as these potentially revolutionary forms, darker styles, and ’90s-style anti-branding branding have gained new traction, the metabolic rate of branding itself is, no doubt, only speeding up.
Main section (in English and German):
Ingeborg Harms
“Crystal Mesh: Existential imagery in current fashion”
“Collective Soul”
Jessica Gysel in conversation with Lotta Volkova Adam and Atelier E.B. (Beca Lipscombe & Lucy McKenzie)
Caroline Busta
“Neo-Bodies”
Natasha Stagg
“Access Coding”
Philipp Ekardt
“Dressing After the Great Divide: The emancipation of Jonathan Anderson”
Calla Henkel and Max Pitegoff
“Last Night”
Fashion profiles by Rob Kulisek and David Lieske (with texts by Harry Burke, Tess Edmonson, Jack Gross, and Bianca Heuser) of:
69 Worldwide / Nasir Mazhar / Kyle Luu / Bernadette Van-Huy / Liam Hodges / Telfar / Nik Kosmas & Jeanne-Salomé Rochat / Martine Rose / Juliana Huxtable / Eckhaus Latta / DIS / Nhu Duong / Dese Escobar
Reviews (partial listing):
Peter Geimer
on Friedrich Kittler‘s Baggersee (German)
Sara Marcus
on K8 Hardy’s Outfitumentary (English)
Barbara Vinken
on Michaela Melián at Lenbachhaus, Munich (German)
Jens Hoffmann
on Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible at the Met Breuer, New York (English)
Verena Dengler
on Lili Reynaud-Dewar at Galerie Emanuel Layr, Vienna (German)
Craig Buckley
on Les Levine at Buell Hall, GSAPP, Columbia University, New York (English)
Susanne von Falkenhausen
on Boris Lurie at Jüdisches Museum, Berlin (German)
Dena Yago
on Ei Arakawa, Gela Patashuri, and Sergei Tcherepnin at Midway Contemporary, Minneapolis (English)
Julia Moritz
on Tobias Madison at Kestnergesellschaft, Hannover (English)
Hans-Christian Dany
on Nervöse Systeme at Haus der Kulturen der Welt, Berlin (German)
Obituaries:
Björn Gottstein remembers Pierre Boulez (1925–2016) (German)
Than Hussein Clark remembers Zaha Hadid (1950–2016) (English)
Plus artists’ editions by:
John Miller
Torbjørn Rødland
Visit TEXTE ZUR KUNST online at www.textezurkunst.de.
Available by subscription at TZK Abonnement.
For editions and other information, please contact:
TEXTE ZUR KUNST
Strausberger Platz 19
10243 Berlin
Germany
T +49 (0) 30 30 10 453 45 / F +49 (0) 30 30 10 453 44 / editionen [at] textezurkunst.de
