Issue #128 What Sort of an Art Is Cookery? Are the Great Chefs All Dead?

What Sort of an Art Is Cookery? Are the Great Chefs All Dead?

Martha Rosler

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Symposiast reclining on kline, putting his fingers into his mouth, and vomiting into a bowl on the ground, assisted by a boy. Kylix painted by Douris, ca. 480 BC. Karlsruhe, Badisches Landesmuseum. License: CC BY-SA 4.0.

Issue #128
June 2022










Notes
1

Craig Claiborne, Classic French Cooking (Time-Life, 1970), 20.

2

Austin de Croze, What to Eat & Drink in France; A Guide to the Characteristic Recipes & Wines of Each French Province, with a Glossary of Culinary Terms and a Full Index (Frederick Warne & Co. Ltd, 1931), xii.

3

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, The Physiology of Taste: or, Meditations on Transcendental Gastronomy, trans. M. F. K. Fisher (Liveright Publishing, 1948), 15.

4

De Croze, introduction to What to Eat & Drink in France, xi–xii.

5

“Publisher’s Preface” to The Physiology of Taste, by Brillat-Savarin, ix–x.

6

David Hume, “Of the Standard of Taste,” in English Essays from Sir Philip Sidney to Macaulay, ed. C. W. Eliott (1757; P. F. Collier & Son, 1910), 206.

7

Hume, “Of the Standard of Taste,” 210.

8

Fernande Garvin, The Art of French Cooking (Bantam Books, 1958), 6–9.

9

Adapted from Giorgio Pintzas Monzani.

10

The solids remaining in the strainer are called allec but difficult to use in modern cooking. If you wish to try, place them in a glass jar and use within two months.

Excerpted from Martha Rosler, The Art of Cooking: A (Mock) Dialogue Between Julia Child and Craig Claiborne, unpublished manuscript. A previous excerpt appeared in e-flux journal #65 and, as a comix coauthored with Josh Neufeld, in e-flux journal #110.